You may have noticed that ladder bars are permitted in the Street Outlaw class for 1996. What you may not realize is that a ladder bar kit is quite easy to install.

First lets talk about what a ladder bar kit consists of. The typical kit includes two ladder bars (adjustable or non-adjustable), a track locator, a front ladder bar cross member, and upper shock mount cross member, two lower shock mount brackets (usually adjustable), and two coil-over type shocks and springs.

The adjustable type ladder bars (typically about 28" center to center) have a threaded set-up on the upper part of the ladder tube to allow minor adjustments to the pinion angle. The lower shock mount brackets should have several locator holes which permits adjustment of the ride height of the rear of the car. Usually, the coil-over shocks have a provision whereby the height or length of the spring (pre-load) can be adjusted from right to left. This may all sound complicated but compared to a competition type 4-link, ladder bars are a piece of cake and after initial set up, usually don't need further adjusting.

Another thing to remember is that a properly designed ladder bar set up does not require modifications to the stock rear sub rear sub frame. This is fortunate since the Street Outlaw class does not allow modifications in this area. No "back half" type modifications allowed to the stock frame or wheel tubs, other than frame cross members.

We have had numerous people ask us what a ladder bar set-up would do to increase performance on their 5.0's. Here is what we have found. If you car is running in the 12's, don't waste your energy on a ladder bar kit. If, however, you want to decrease your 60 foot times and increase straight line handling on a mid 10 second or quicker car, a ladder bar kit may be just the answer. We have one customer who had been running in the mid 9's with the stock 4-link set-up. Switching to a ladder bar allowed the car to drop into the 8's and at the same time, increase the handling capability. Before, when still using the stock 4-link, when the second stage of his nitrous came in, the car was all over the track. Now, the car goes straight as a string.

Another prospect for a ladder bar kit is someone who has damaged either his upper or lower "torque boxes" or stock 4-link attachment points. We have had several customers damage the lower attachment points using certain types of "lift bars". And we have had other customers pull the upper attachment points completely out of the floor. Once these stock attachment point are damaged, they are almost impossible to repair.

How do we install a ladder bar kit without taking everything in the rear end apart or using an expensive chassis jig? Here is the easy way:

You need two things. First is someone who knows how to weld. And second, you need a gas station type car lift. The lift needs to be the type that you can drive the car on rather than a chassis lift. It is important that the work is done with your Mustang standing on the tires.

Let's begin. First, decide the location of the ladder bars. They should be as wide as possible; just inside of the stock frame rails. Next, bolt the front of the ladder bars onto the front ladder bar cross member. With the front cross member held up in place by a friend, tack weld the rear of the ladder bars onto the rear end housing. An 8.8 Ford rear end will work fine. There is no need to use the 9" Ford housing as long as you have good parts in the stock rear end.

With the ladder bars tack welded to the rear end housing, weld the front cross member in place. This will usually be about where the rear of the sub frame connectors attach. Next, bolt the track locator in place. This will usually be between the front of the drivers side ladder bar and the rear of the passenger side ladder bar. When that is done, locate the upper shock mount cross member in place. This will be just above and behind the rear end housing (and in front of the fuel tank). Weld this cross member in place between the stock frame rails. The lower shock mounts weld to the rear end housing directly behind each ladder bar, again as wide as possible. Welding in this way (all the way around the axle housing tube) will minimize any warping of the housing. When this is done, complete the welding of the rear of the ladder bars to the housing. Finally, mount the coil over shocks to the upper shock mount cross member and the lower shock mounts. Adjust the ride height to be as close to the original as possible.

At this point, you should have the complete ladder bar kit installed and at the same time, the stock 4-link still attached. Guess what comes next? Unbolt the stock upper and lower 4-link, the stock shocks, and the stock springs, and your car will be a genuine "ladder bar car".

As you noticed, the entire installation was accomplished without removing the stock 4-link system. This is what keeps the rear end in position, both front to rear and also side to side.

Care should be taken to not get the axle housing to hot while welding or you could damage the axle bearings. Also, the next time that you change gears on the 8.8 rear end or have it apart it might be a good idea to weld the axle tubes to the cast iron rear end center section for added strength.

A ladder bar kit will go a long way toward making your Mustang leave harder and run straighter. This is particularly true in the 10.5" tire Street Outlaw class where we have several 9 second runners.

A ladder bar kit, however, is not recommended if you use your Mustang much on the street. Going straight is fine but sharp turns cause to much binding and may damage either the ladder bars or your chassis.

If you need any more info (or a ladder bar kit), don't hesitate to call us at (800) 851-5283.

Good Luck in 1996.